Vacation idea: Monhegan Island

Monhegan Island, Maine is a great place to spend some time relaxing. The island is about a 1-hour ferry ride from the Maine coast.  Once you get off the ferry, there aren’t car rentals. Just dirt roads and your walking feet!  It feels like a trip back in time only without the bonnets and covered wagons. I went there for 2 days last week, and loved it.

Monhegan in the rain

The island is small– you can hike around the perimeter in an a day. There’s a village area with smaller roads leading off of it, and the rest of the island is woods.  Mid-June is a good time to go because the tourists haven’t arrived yet and the beautiful purple lupine is blooming (see below).  The only problem with going so early in the season is that the island museum isn’t open yet, and some of the artists’ studios aren’t open yet either. It could be an ideal place for an outdoor family vacation, or a secluded romantic getaway for two.

DINING

Most of the businesses on Monhegan don’t have websites, so you’ll just have to be surprised when you get there. There are several cafes on the island. Carina is a natural and organic grocer/bakery that has to-die-for cinnamon raisin bagels baked by the owner’s neighbor.  My other favorite was Black Duck, a coffee shop and gift store that serves my favorite coffee, Coffee By Design (roasted in Portland, ME). The Barnacle, down by the dock serves baked goods and hot drinks too. There’s a very sweet Polish woman working there this summer.

For dinner, there are two places I tried, both of which are at hotels with great atmosphere. The Island Inn serves dinner– the usual Maine fare like lobster bisque, crab cakes, clam chowder. It has pretty yellow walls and seaside decor. The Monhegan House has a similar menu. The night I was there, there was a fireplace going and a live guitarist, which really aided in the ambiance. Note: neither places serve alcohol, so make sure to buy some wine beforehand at one of the island grocers and bring it with you.

WHERE TO STAY

There are a handful of places to stay on the island. I stayed at Tribler Cottage, which was cozy and budget minded. It has that friendly feel that epitomizes the island. There’s a common room where the innkeeper has books and information about the island that visitors are welcome to read. If you’re looking for something more upscale, the Island Inn would be a great choice for a romantic getaway and it has the best view on the island. Monhegan House also has a cozy atmosphere; don’t be deterred by their mediocre website. Although I didn’t go inside, Shining Sails also looked very well kept on the exterior.

GETTING THERE

I took a Hardy Boat cruise out of New Harbor. It takes one hour, and the crew is extremely punctual and friendly. They serve hot coffee on chilly days and make sure to point out wildlife along the way. I would highly recommend them, though there are other boats that leave out of other nearby towns that I haven’t tried.

ART/CRAFT

In the village, there is the Lupine Gallery, which sells art from Monhegan artists. I’m an admitted art snob, so I tend to think a lot of the art is “touristy” and I was hoping to see something just slightly more original there, but it’s worth a trip inside. I did see a few things that were my taste.  There’s also a map you can get on the island bulletin boards that has all of the artists’ studio hours so you can make a day of art.

Winter Works

Nearby, you’ll find Winter Works. It’s a craft gallery of treasures that year-round Monhegan residents make in the off-season. There are knitted scarves and mittens, books published by residents, jewelry, etc. I adore handmade gifts, and I love that the money from anything you purchase goes directly to the person who made it.

OUTDOORS

There are a multitude of trails on Monhegan. Choosing one just depends on your fitness level and the amount of time you want to spend. I would recommend taking a trail to the eastern side of the island where you can see a rocky overlook 163 ft above the sea. Make sure not to miss the shipwreck on the south side of the island.

FINAL THOUGHTS

On your packing list: sunscreen, bugspray, rain jacket, umbrella, lightweight knapsack, water bottle, walking shoes.

Being there really makes you savor life. No internet, no phones, just fresh air and wildflowers. Makes you want to sit down with a good book or pick up a paintbrush rather than going back to your busy life.